I followed Brett Walach's procedure (available at the first link above in the Vectech section) and it helped, but not quite as much as I was hoping. But after that I put strips of shipping tape across the front speaker, and the combination of the two really worked great. You can't really see the silk mask for J302 and J107, but there is only one cable that is two-terminal at both ends. One end is by the J203 dsub9 connector (I even thought the J302 was transposed for awhile).
I recently bought a veccy and multicart without any overlays, so got on the net and starting reading up on making your own. Some people really go to painstaking effort to make authentic looking ones while others say don't even bother, the gameplay is still there without them. I decided to make my own but was not going to kill myself doing it.
Mark De Smet has a good page if you insist on making overlays perfectly.
Some of the advice on the net worked for me, some didn't (which may have been my fault). Tried sticking a bare transparency to the screen because the static electricity was reported to hold it, but it didn't. Also tried covering all nonwhite areas on back of a transparency and spraying with white model paint, but that didn't work. The paint kept finding a way to seep in. Using liquid paper didn't look good either, couldn't get the white backing in nice straight lines.
Finally came up with this procedure (again, not the greatest)
The final result was so-so, the slides degrade the screen sharpness. I'm going to keep reading and get some real overlays to compare to. However the cost sure couldn't be beat. BTW, my company only has two rules for the color printer: no transparencies, and don't use it for personal business :)